My car is completely stock and one question I have been wondering is.. You may need to trim your bumper slightly depending on what intercooler you get but it wont be much. The S chassis cars all had side mount intercoolers, and it should bolt up with little to no modification They came like this everywhere but north America. So we showed you how to bolt up over whp to a VQpowered G35 or Z, which shaved 1-second off its lap time around our local test track Toronto Motorsports….
Clutch Before even touching your car, there are some critical components that need to be inspected and possibly replaced. Notify of. Vote Up 0 Vote Down. Peter Tarach. Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email. Subscribe TP-Link takes your privacy seriously. By completing this form you confirm that you understand and agree to our Privacy Policy.
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Firmware A firmware update can resolve issues that the previous firmware version may have and improve its current performance. A T25 journal bearing turbo is paired with a MAF based fuel injection system using cc side feed injectors and direct coil on plug ignition. In stock form the engine produces psi and is rated for crank HP. This new cylinder head has a more efficient intake port design than the S13 SR20 for better air flow. The addition of VTC also means the engine is able to produce more mid range power than the S13 version.
The S15 SR20 receives an upgraded GT28 ball bearing turbo and larger cc side feed injectors with a crank HP rating in stock form. Starting off with the intake, exhaust and inter cooler we are able to free up HP. From there the addition of a large fuel pump, injectors and a modern Engine Management system with a custom tune we can push power into the range at psi of boost.
Moving on to the main mounts, there are 2 nuts that mount the motor mounts to the chassis. You'll want to get them from the bottom of the car. It's much easier to just remove the front tires to be able to access these nuts and get better leverage on them. Once those are off, put your jack under the transmission for support and get the 4 bolts that mount the transmission bracket to the under-body of the car. At this point, there should hopefully be nothing holding the motor and transmission back.
Find a good location on the motor head to hook up your engine hoist. It helps out a great deal to have a leveler on your hoist. So, moving on Oh, by the way, it helps if you remove the radiator and fans completely, including the clutch fan, for more clearance.
Now, you can start pulling out the whole motor and transmission in one piece. Pull out slowly making sure that everything is in fact disconnected from it. Make sure you get the O2 sensor, coil pack sensor and heater hoses between the firewall and the motor. You want to pull out a little and then hoist it up a little and just keep going up and out slowly making sure not to hit anything important like the power steering lines.
Also, you're going to have to start lowering the back end of the transmission while pulling the front of the motor up to get it at approximately a 45 degree angle to clear the front of the engine bay. Once it clears, hoist it up and roll it back away from the car. You're half way there - Not really :.
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